february gardening

February Gardening
China tea, the scent of hyacinths, wood fires and bowls of violets---
that is my mental picture of an agreeable February afternoon

Even though it may still be cold and damp outdoors, an occasional dose of sunshine could certainly put the gardening bug into you. With a little luck, Mother Nature will send a few blossoms your way this month. We are now at a time when we can no longer put off those garden projects, waiting for a nice day...... Don't be caught off guard though, winter is far from being over! If exceptionally cold weather is forecast, provide protection to early flowering or tender plants by covering them with some type of cloth material. Remove the covering as soon as the weather moderates again.

Shrubs and trees

Deciduous shrubs and trees are still dormant enough to transplant this month, once the buds have begun to swell, it will be to late. Click these links for information on transplanting azaleas or moving specimen plants.

Trees which weren't fed last fall should be deep fed by punching a series of 1-2 inch holes two feet apart around the drip line and filled with an appropriate food. A mulch of well composted manure is also an excellent treat for your tree.

Mid to late February is the time to fertilize shrubs and evergreens. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use dry type fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.

Prune your summer flowering shrubs now but be aware that spring bloomers have already produced their buds last fall, and pruning them now will result in the loss of flowers. Forsythia, quince, spirea and other early spring flowering shrubs should be pruned a little later, after they have finished flowering. Pruning to improve the shape of the plant, as well as to open up the center of the plant to good air circulation and sun exposure. Always start your pruning by removing all dead, decayed or broken branches. Click these links for information on pruning roses or general procedures.

It's a good time to stroll around and trim back any branches that were damaged by the ravages of winter.

If you haven't yet applied your dormant fruit spray, DO IT NOW!!

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

Plants which may have been pushed out of the ground by frost heave should be pressed firmly back into place.

Plant daylilies, bleeding hearts, and plantain lilies this month.

Deciduous vines such as honeysuckle should be pruned and shaped.

Most perennials may be divided and moved up until they begin to show new growth.

Check your stored plants such as fuschias and geraniums, and if they are shriveled water them lightly.

Summer flowering bulbs may try to start into growth if they are subjected to heat. They should be kept very dry, and stored at 45 degrees F. If they are shriveling, put them into slightly damp peat moss, but keep them cool!

If you plan to grow lobelia, ageratum, verbena, petunia, vinca, or other slowing plants from scratch, the seeds should be started indoors in the later part of the month. For more information see growing plants from seeds.

Climbing roses should be thinned out to get rid of last years tangled growth.

Fruits and veggies

Rhubarb, horseradish, asparagus and artichokes can be planted this month.

Kiwis and grapes must be pruned by Valentines day to prevent sap 'bleeding'.

Strawberries can be planted as soon as they become available.

Cane fruits (raspberries and blackberries), with the exception of everbearers should have all the canes which produced fruit last year removed.

If you grow currants, remove all trunks which are over 3 years old.

The vegetable garden should get its first tilling (if weather permits) to allow the weather to aid you in breaking up the dirt clods. Exposed weeds and seeds hopefully will perish. See Creating a new garden.

February 2005

1-2 PLANT CARROTS, TURNIPS, ONIONS, BEETS, IRISH POTATOES AND OTHER ROOT CROPS IN THE SOUTH. LETTUCE, CABBAGE, COLLARDS AND OTHER LEAFY VEGETABLES WILL DO WELL. START SEED BEDS.

3-4 NEITHER PLANT NOR SOW ON THESE BARREN DAYS.

5-6-7 ANY ROOT CROPS THAT CAN BE PLANTED NOW WILL DO WELL.

8-9 BARREN DAYS. FINE FOR CLEARING, PLOWING, FERTILIZING AND KILLING PLANT PESTS.

10-11 PLANT PEPPERS, SWEET CORN, TOMATOES AND OTHER ABOVEGROUND CROPS IN SOUTHERN FLORIDA, CALIFORNIA AND TEXAS. EXTRA GOOD FOR CUCUMBERS, PEAS, CANTALOUPES AND OTHER VINE CROPS. SET STRAWBERRY PLANTS.

12-13 SEEDS PLANTED NOW WILL GROW POORLY AND YIELD LITTLE.

14-15-16 FINE FOR PLANTING BEANS, PEPPERS, CUCUMBERS, MELONS AND OTHER ABOVE-GROUND CROPS WHERE CLIMATE IS SUITABLE.

17-18 ANY SEED PLANTED NOW WILL TEND TO ROT.

19-20-21 FINE FOR PLANTING BEANS, TOMATOES, CORN, COTTON, CUCUMBERS, PEPPERS, MELONS AND OTHER ABOVEGROUND CROPS WHERE CLIMATE ALLOWS. PLANT SEED BEDS AND FLOWER GARDENS.

22-23-24 CLEAR GROUND, TURN SOD. KILL PLANT PESTS.

25-26-27 FAVORABLE DAYS FOR PLANTING ROOT CROPS. FINE FOR SOWING GRAINS, HAY, FORAGE CROPS. PLANT FLOWERS.

28 PLANT CARROTS, TURNIPS, ONIONS, BEETS, IRISH POTATOES AND OTHER ROOT CROPS IN THE SOUTH. LETTUCE, CABBAGE, COLLARDS AND OTHER LEAFY VEGETABLES WILL DO WELL. START SEED BEDS.

Odds and ends

House plants may notice the longer days, and begin growing. You can begin feeding them again, but use a dilute 50% fertilizer mix until the growth is robust.

Continue feeding our feathered friends, you'll want them to stick around to help you in insect control when the weather warms again.

Did you check your garden tools yet? Don't wait 'til the spring rush to get your mower back in shape!

In the event of snow, be sure to shake or brush off the white stuff from the branches of your evergreens and shrubs.

It's time to turn the compost pile!